Started off inauspiciously, as my trunk bag on my rear rack lost the connection between the straps and the bag, causing the bag to depart the formation and calling for a return to the car. That bag has gained some weight, and when I went rummaging through it to extract anything essential for the ride the answer was: not much, really. Seems like a self-teachable moment.
Back on the bike, rode MP0 in Groveton to MP11.5 in Boggs round trip. Took a nap in the sun at Boggs. Curious that a man in disheveled dirty clothes with his possessions in bags taking a nap at the Point is a problem, but a man in high-viz with his possessions in panniers taking a nap at the Trailhead is a sign of successful advocacy.
Also pleased to see a new historical marker at MP9.1, the North Star Junction at which the Montour Railroadtrain line once split to go to either Santiago or Imperial (the latter being the course followed by the Montour Trail). What I really liked about the marker was it includes a historic photo. The track switch in the photo is at the same position as the historic marker is today, so you can compare the photo with the layout of the land and see where the other train line used to go. It's pretty cool.
Talked with a couple at Boggs, the gentleman is prepping for a Canada-to-Mexico ride along the Pacific coast on his Surly LHT after his upcoming retirement. He seemed to have it well through out, it was nice to talk with them.
Sad to see the Enlow Station ice cream shop closed and for sale. They had the best pistachio soft serve I've ever had. Nice folks and I wish them well. It's a good location but a seasonal, weekend business.
Saw a new-to-me switchback ramp connecting to the Montour Trail at MP2.9, seems to connect to a housing development. Pretty steep, not bike friendly, but it was probably all they could do given the terrain.
A very nice day for a bike ride.
Ft. Duquesne bridge, Ft. Pitt bridge, southside, rode up 18th Street to the top of South Side. This was complicated by my bicycle's inability to stay in the small chainring, so this ascent kicked by butt.
Searched for a mural near Arlington Street, never found it. Found some great views of Pittsburgh.
Rode toward Mt. Washington, stopped for a snack at GrandView Park. I think that's the best view of Pittsburgh. Found a mural on the side of the historic Company 27 firehouse, which has been at that location since 1908. The mural sits over a mini-park dedicated to Charlie Lewis (originator of the national fill the boot campaign), who has a unique resume of being both a union leader and the Pittsburgh fire chief (1980-85)and was highly respected. 
One of Pittsburgh's Bravest came out and said Hello, a very nice gentleman who offered to refill the water bottles. He said, What does a policeman and a fireman have in common? They both want to be a fireman.
Descended McCardle Roadway, which was much faster and much cooler than the climb. Rode south toward Homestead for a meeting. I saw trail guru Yale C. on his bike but I couldn't stop, I only had a few minutes extra before the meeting.
After the meeting, took a look at Sandcastle after work was done for the day. Very impressive work and clear progress being made. This is what the separation between the tracks, the trail, the road, and the waterpark looks like:
I think that's excellent. Until now, I thought that the Marcegaglia bike lane was the best segregated bike lane in the Pittsburgh area, but this is going to be much better. I think it's going to be a very safe way to put bikes and cars in close proximity. They're really doing this right.
Further down the trail, closer to Keystone Metals and after the roadway veers away from the trail, the trail-in-progress looks like this:
We checked to see if they've replaced the Legends of Pittsburgh mural (Second Ave. under Grant Street) yet and were pleasantly surprised to see a new one in place. This is the third incarnation of this artwork:
Met Pittsburgh cyclist and bon vivant Marko on the Jail Trail, went to see what the Keystone Metals project looks like and it. looks. good.
A lot of people on the trail this afternoon, especially birdwatchers with some impressive equipment looking at the eagle's nest by MM5 at Keystone Metals. There was actually a crowd on the trail, an ice cream cart would have done real well.
Reversed and rode north to REI for some shopping and Marko kept riding. Came out of REI, rode Station Square, Point State Park, North Side and then around past the Heinz Complex to seek a mural we'd seen recently on Twitter from PittsburghIsBeautiful via PghGraffiti:
This 1984 installation was commissioned by the Heinz family to commemorate the role of the nature and the role of labor in the modern world. A tableau closer to the river depicts more of the nature themes, and this upper presentation suggesting a temple depicts the labor theme. I must admit I don't get it; why have they chosen to depict the face of labor as tragic and suffering?
It was a pretty day, lots of people on bicycles.
Future Bike Camp Designers: I love what you've been doing with the traditional primitive campground: grass, trees, picnic bench, secure trash can, fire circle, water source, restroom or porta-john. Moving forward, would you please consider:
As we adapted our plan to a line of severe weather, we drove from Pittsburgh beyond Nashville and overnighted at the Natchez Hills Vineyard which also hosts a small Bed and Breakfast operation. They're very bicycle-friendly and have the best bike trail-to-B&B shuttle car setup I've ever heard of. Although we were uncertain of our surroundings when we arrived in the dark, sunrise presented gardens and fields and some very pretty buildings. The proprietor was excellent, they're a retired military couple, the breakfast was awesome and we probably overstayed our timeframe in conversation but it was very interesting. I would stay there again in a heartbeat.
This is what the Natchez Trace Parkway looked like when we first got on it, and as far as road surface, width, shoulders etc it never really varied much:
We stopped in Collingwood TN at MP355 for a snack at Miss Hazelbea's Sweets and Treats, very biker friendly, right next to the visitor center, and lest you think Miss Hazelbea was a pushover they'll have you know she was a WAC in WW2.
We continued south into the prevailing winds, which would turn out to be a theme. Perhaps there was a reason that all the other cyclists were riding northboung? Hmmm.
Approached the Tennessee River crossing to Colbert Ferry, the map really didn't provide much advice in terms of what to expect, but it was really very nice:
We camped that night at Tishomingo State Park at MP305 and paid $13 for the priviledge. There's a curious overlay of all sorts of government; the feds and the NPS run the Trace Parkway, the rest stops and shelters and several of the free campgrounds; the state parks run other facilities; counties provide yet another layer.
S. stayed at the Belmont Hotel which was very nice, an old school hotel but still kept up, staff was extremely hospitable. We took advantage of S's lodging to glomm some hot showers before heading to the campground.
still a work in progress
The Natchez Trace Parkway is a two-lane road from Natchez to Nashville that closely parallels the route of the Natchez Trace, serving to commemorate the route while preserving the path. The Parkway is operated by the National Park Service and is advertised as dual-use for bicycles and cars.
Our initial plan to ride the Natchez Trace Parkway by bicycle was to proceed as two bicyclists (with a support van) to the northern end, and to bike-camp our way to the southern end, whereupon we'd drive back to the center of the universe (Pittsburgh).
Our original itinerary, for those who like such things, went something like this:
Thurs 11 Apr: Day 1 of 6 riding North Terminus MP445 to MP388 MerriwetherLewis (57 miles)
last coffee: 8400 Tennessee Hwy 100 Nashville, TN 37221 http://www.lovelesscafe.com/
trailhead bike shop: http://tracebikes.com/ 615.646.2485
445 START
444.0 TN Hwy 100 - market (gas) .1 mile east of parkway
429.0 STOP (15 miles) TN Hwy 46? (prob 96) – market/gas .8 miles east of parkway,
town of Leiper's Fork 1.3 miles east of parkway
Leiper's Fork Joe Natural's Restaurant http://joenaturals.com/joes-menu/
Puckett's Grocery & Restaurant http://www.puckettsofleipersfork.com/
427.5 Garrison Creek trailhead (restrooms)
415.7 STOP LUNCH (15 miles) TN Hwy 7 – market 1.7 miles east of parkway
408.0 TN Hwy 50 – market (gas) 1.1 miles west of parkway
407.7 Gordon House trailhead (restrooms)
404.7 Jackson Falls (restrooms)
392 STOP (23 miles) US 412 - Fall Hollow Market at exit
385.9 TN Hwy 20 - market (gas) 1.3 miles east of parkway
385.9 END (8 miles) Meriwether Lewis National Monument, 191 Meriwether Lewis Parkway, Hohenwald, TN 38462
Camp: Meriwether Lewis campsite (restrooms)
Bnb: Natchez Hills B&B, 906 Ridgetop Road, Hampshire, TN 38461 http://www.natchezhills.com
dinner in Hohenwald, 2 miles from trailhead
Junkyard Dog Steakhouse 18 N Maple St Hohenwald, TN 38462 (931) 796-0041
River Rat Grill 35 N Maple St Hohenwald, TN 38462 (931) 796-4330
Fri 12 Apr: Day2 of 6 riding, MP388 to MP305 Tishomingo State Park, camping (83 miles)
Tues 16 Apr: Day6 of 6 riding. MP55 to MP0 (55 miles),
And that's what the plan was, FWIW. No plan survives contact with the real world, as Clausewitz suggested, and Thursday was a day of thunderstorms and Tornadoes so instead of driving south on Wednesday and riding Thursday, we drive south on Thursday through the rain and stayed on schedule, beginning our ride on Friday morning.
We did discover two gems on the way to the trail. We found the River Terrace in Columbia, TN for our last meal before joining the Trace and it was very impressive. I had some andouille sausage and then New Orleans style crabcakes, which was excellent; all three of us were very impressed with the food and service.
